map
Our Affiliates
Listen In 28 LanguagesRFE/RL Radio
In 28 Languages

'Berlin Wall's Lessons For Today'

In an op-ed for "USA Today," Jeffrey Gedmin discusses RFE and the role of free media in societies living under repressive regimes. More
More Articles

Features

Uzbekistan Promoting Itself To Tourists, But Maintains Exhausting Visa Regime

Children play near the ancient walls of the Uzbek city of Khiva.

October 25, 2009
By Farangis Najibullah
Narrow medieval streets leading to blue-tiled palaces and mosques.

Crowded oriental bazaars filled with merchants hawking their wares.

Teahouses featuring carved wooden pillars and doors.

Such ambiance from a bygone era is evident throughout Uzbekistan, whether in the ancient cities of Bukhara, Samarkand, or Khiva, or more remote locations along the Silk Road.

Looking to take advantage of its unique heritage and attributes, Uzbekistan is promoting itself as an exotic tourist destination for those looking to experience Central Asian history, culture, and cuisine.

But even as Uzbekistan attempts to develop its tourism industry, its authoritarian regime -- criticized internationally for egregious human-rights abuses -- maintains one of the most stringent visa regimes in Central Asia. It's a bureaucratic rite of passage that often turns away the very type of traveler the country is looking to attract.

The contradictory approach was exemplified by events that took place earlier this week.

As Uzbektourism, the state-run body that oversees Uzbekistan's tourism industry, hosted dozens of foreign representatives during its annual "Tourism Along the Silk Road" fair, the World Tourism Organization was calling on Tashkent to ease its visa restrictions for tourists.

Uzbekistan has heavily invested in its tourism industry in past years, building high-standard hotels with improved services both in the capital Tashkent and in the historic cities that serve as the main tourist attractions in the country.

The country has also modernized its airports and air-transport infrastructure, purchasing new Boeing and Airbus airliners to shuttle passengers on international flights.

According to Uzbek media, the historic city of Khiva alone has been visited by over 27,000 foreign tourists this year, including travelers from France, Germany, and Spain.

Tanya Evans, director of a London-based tourist agency The Silk Road And Beyond, says the agency has in recent years organized trips to Uzbekistan for hundreds of British tourists interested in touring sites of historical and architectural significance.

But Evans laments that, unlike many other popular tourist destinations, traveling to Uzbekistan involves a complex and time-consuming visa procedure.

"Usually for British people and other EU citizens, you need to get an authorization from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Tashkent," Evans says. "Once they authorize your visa, then you can go to a nearest consulate and get it stamped in your passport. You can't just go to the embassy and get the visa."

Pavel Pozniak, a manager of the Prague-based Adventur travel agency, tells RFE/RL's Uzbek Service that the Czech agency hopes to one day promote travel packages to all five Central Asian countries that lie along the ancient Silk Route.

A memorial commemorating victims of Stalin's repression in Tashkent
But Pozniak says that the visa issue, combined with the high price of air tickets to Uzbekistan and other Central Asian countries, discourages many Czech tourists.

"Besides, we don't get enough information about Central Asian countries' tourist infrastructure," says Pozniak. "And we are not sure if we can find reliable tourist agencies there to work together as partners."

Zarif, an owner of a tourist agency in Tashkent who declined to provide his last name, says his private agency, along with its partner company in the United States, organizes sightseeing trips to Uzbekistan for American tourists.

Zarif says Uzbekistan's visa regime stands as the main frustration experienced by his customers. A single tourist visa to Uzbekistan for U.S. citizens costs $131, and applicants have to wait at least 10 working days until the visa can be issued.

Those who want to speed up the process by five days are required to pay $197. The visa cost is nonrefundable and there is no guarantee that applicants will get visas.

"Visas are a big problem, and for some certain countries it becomes especially difficult to obtain an Uzbek visa," Zarif says. "They have to wait a long time. For instance, our customers from the U.S. have a very hard time getting Uzbek visas."

A street scene in the Uzbek town of Bukhara on the old Silk Road trade route
Uzbekistan's strict visa regime and customs and border control are a source of concern for many travelers from Uzbekistan's neighboring countries, too.

Jahongir Sabohi, a Dushanbe-based businessman, says that every year he takes his wife and children to spend their summer holidays in Samarkand, his parents' birthplace.

"Every single year, lawlessness in border posts and customs officials' rude manners turn our trips into a nightmare," he says.  "Even if you have already got Uzbek visa, it doesn't mean that you will be able to enter Uzbekistan. Uzbek border guards simply close the border post -- if they feel like it -- without any notice, without any explanation. And the Uzbek Embassy doesn't inform you about it. There is no coordination between them.

"There are no flights between Dushanbe and Samarkand and we travel by car, and sometimes we spend several days in the car waiting for the border to be reopened," Sabohi adds.

Zarif, the Uzbek tour operator, believes his country has imposed far too many bureaucratic hurdles and that the tourist industry suffers.

"What can we do?" Zarif says. "This is a rule here, and there is no way around it."

RFE/RL Uzbek Service correspondent Farruh Yusupov contributed to this report.
     
Comments
by: Senjo
October 30, 2009 19:41
This is so typical. The Uzbek govt may publicly say they want more tourism, but in reality, not really. It only makes it harder to control the population and who needs pesky tourists snooping into things they shouldn’t and having unnecessary discussions with the locals about democracy and human rights and dictatorships. So the answer is, make the process to get in the country difficult and frustrating and visitors will eventually give up and go away, spending their money elsewhere. Who really loses, only the private innkeepers, restaurateurs and a few tour companies. And also the local police, who lose out on fresh targets to shake down and intimidate.

I was disappointed that this article didn't include any comment from the Uzbek Govt.

by: JDO from: Seattle, WA, USA
October 27, 2009 03:57
N from Cairo - That's a bit of an apples and oranges comparison. The "complaints" here are about the futility of promoting a tourist industry when you make it so difficult for tourists to come and spend money. I don't think many weterners are truly complaining that they can't visit Uzbekistan.

Western countries create visa difficulties because of the large numbers of people looking to immigrate - not because of tourism. I'm definitely not going to defend Western countries' visa procedures, but in one case you have countries trying to stem the tide of immigration, while in the case of Uzbekistan you have a country officially trying to ATTRACT foreigners as tourists, and shooting itself in the foot by enforcing visa procedures that make it so difficult to do that.

by: Muslim from: Ihio
October 27, 2009 00:09
Excuse me Mr. Sergey, but you must have definitely wrong idea about true muslims. What makes you so sure that if Islamists come to power it will be worth than it is now?
Firstly I want to say that we do not need somekind of group to come to power but honest, just and loyal muslims to lead the country!

by: Turgai from: Eurasia
October 26, 2009 13:38
My friend Sergey definitely gets the Nobel Prize for originality and ideological ruminating. Talking about growing up... :-)

BTW travel red tape is even tougher for Uzbekistani who are still bound to an exit visa system (of course it's easier for Uzbek women who are being shipped to the flesh markets of the decadent monafiq emirates by travel agencies owned by... [now you can guess 3 times] ).

by: Sergey from: Chicago
October 26, 2009 04:04
Farangis (and RFERL team), please don't be ridiculous.

If Uzbekistan had democratic elections, parts of the country would fall under Islamic Movement of Uzbekistan or similar Taleban/Hamas-like regimes. Karimov could be a dictator, but he is much much better alternative than Islamists, even if they come to power democratically. If Islamists come to power, not only tourists will stop coming entirely--any Uzbek with brains will leave the country permanently.

Grow up, Folks -:)))

by: N from: Cairo
October 25, 2009 21:46
It is strange that westerners complain of lengthy visa procedures - 'up to 10 days'! but at the same time, their countries maintain awful visa procedures for anyone outside the western world that could last months. Double standard at its best.

by: Patty from: Canada
October 25, 2009 17:31
I was just in Uzbekistan last month for a two week tour. The country's historical monuments are beautiful and the local people warm and quite hospitable. It is definitely worth a visit. And while the visa application process is tedious, it is by no means impossible. I sent my passport to the Uzbek consulate in New York and received it back with the visa in less than 3 days.

by: Jasmine
October 25, 2009 16:10
Who wants to go there anyway?
     
TEXT SIZE - +

Editors' Picks

President Van Rompuy

'How's That Again?!' Audio

Karzai Inauguration

The Anticipation Of Change Video

Follow Us On Twitter

Keep up-to-date on all the latest news from RFE/RL's broadcast region by following us on Twitter:
~ You can find our instant news feed at @RFE_RLNEWS.
~ An obsessive Kremlin watcher? Follow our blog at @PowerVertical.
~ Human rights abuses chronicled at @RightsWatchdog.
~ News, comment, and the odd silly dictator story at @TransmissionRFE.

Products and services:

RSSMail SubscriptionMobile