On the steep slope of a glacier jutting through the Hunza Valley in Pakistan’s mountainous far north, Tariq Jamil measures the ice's movement and takes photos. Later, he creates a report that includes data from sensors and another camera installed near the Shisper glacier to update his village an hour's hike downstream.
The 51-year-old's mission is to rally the 200 families that comprise the village of Hassanabad in the Karakoram Mountains, to protect their way of life, which is increasingly in jeopardy due to unstable lakes that are a result of melting glacier ice.
When glacial lakes overfill or their banks become unsound, they burst, creating deadly floods that wash out bridges and buildings and wipe out fertile land throughout the Hindu Kush, Karakoram, and Himalayan mountain ranges that intersect in northern Pakistan.
Tariq Jamil checks the ice on the Shisper glacier on October 10.
Himalayan glaciers are on track to lose up to 75 percent of their ice by the century's end due to global warming, according to the International Center for Integrated Mountain Development (ICIMOD).
Hassanabad is part of the UN-backed Glacial Lake Outburst Flood (GLOF) II project to help communities downstream of melting glaciers adapt.
After all of the sensors are installed, village representatives will be able to monitor data through their mobile phones, Jamil says. "Local wisdom is very important, we are the main observers. We have witnessed many things."
Amid a shortfall in funding for those most vulnerable to the impacts of climate change, village residents say they urgently need increased support to adapt to the threats of glacial lake floods.
"The needs are enormous," said Karma Lodey Rapten, regional technical specialist for climate change adaptation at the United Nations Development Program (UNDP).
An automatic weather station monitors the Shisper glacier in Hassanabad village.
Pakistan is the only country to receive adaptation funding from the Green Climate Fund -- the Paris Agreement's key financing pot -- to ease the risk of such floods.
While countries like Bhutan have worked with other funders to minimize the threat from glacial lake floods, the $36.96 million GLOF II scheme, which ends this year, is a global benchmark for other regions grappling with this threat, including the Peruvian Andes and China.
Since 2017, weather stations as well as sensors measuring rainfall, water discharge, and river and lake water levels have been installed under the administration of Islamabad and the UNDP. GLOF II has deployed speakers in villages to communicate warnings, and infrastructure like stone-and-wire barriers that slow floodwater.
Boats gather on Attabad Lake, which was formed due to a landslide in Attabad, in the Karakoram mountain range.
In Hassanabad, a villager regularly monitors the feed from a camera installed high up the valley for water levels in the river by the glacier's base during risky periods such as summer, when a lake dammed by ice from Shisper glacier often forms.
With 800,000 people living within 15 kilometers of a glacier, Pakistan is among the world's most at-risk countries. Many residents of Karakoram, the second-highest mountain range in the world, built their homes on lush land along rivers running off glaciers.
October floods in neighboring India, most likely caused by a partial glacial-lake burst in the Himalayas, killed 179 people after an avalanche and intense rains. Many are still unaccounted for. An early warning system was being installed near the lake, but it had not been completed.
A community hall and houses show signs of damage after flooding from a nearby glacier melt in Hassanabad.
Deadly Risks
Fifteen million people worldwide are at risk of glacial-lake flooding, with 2 million of them in Pakistan, according to a February study published in the scientific journal Nature Communications.
From 2018 to 2021, about 14 GLOFs occurred in Pakistan, but that spiked to 75 in 2022, according to the UNDP.
Jamil’s village has experienced close calls from floods, according to residents and officials. Over the past three years, residents have repeatedly evacuated just in time to avoid loss of life, and many fear a flood while they sleep. Others struggled financially as their land and homes were destroyed, most recently in 2022.
Dilshad Bano, 51, sits on the ground near her house, which was damaged after a GLOF incident in Hassanabad.
In Chalt village, a few hours away, a torrent of black water rushed down the valley last year, sweeping away Zahra Ramzan's 11-year old son, Ali Mohammad.
Zahra Ramzan
"I'm in very deep grief. I could not see my son again, even a body," said the 40-year-old.
The village has had little information about the risks, residents said.
Ramzan gets nervous whenever there is heavy rain or flooding, refusing to allow her surviving children out of sight.
In Hassanabad, Jamil is trying to manage these risks. He and 23 other volunteers have been trained in first aid and evacuation planning. Every summer, they keep an eye on the glacier and confer with officials and experts from outside.
Zahra Ramzan holds a picture of her 11-year-old son, Ali Mohammad (left), who was swept away.
They are hoping to receive international financing for 20 times the length of the barrier wall that is currently funded. They also want interest-free loans to rebuild destroyed homes and adapt their housing with stronger material, as well as better mobile reception to access the monitoring feed.
A Plea For Adaptation Funding
With the UN’s COP28 climate summit scheduled to begin on November 30, pressure is ramping up on wealthy countries to fulfill promises to help developing nations.
The Green Climate Fund said in October it had raised $9.3 billion, short of its $10 billion target.
Wealthy countries are set to meet a broader $100 billion climate-finance pledge to developing countries this year, three years late and short of the actual needs, estimated by the UN at over $200 billion annually by 2030.
ICIMOD said changes driven by global warming to glaciers in the Hindu Kush Himalayan region are "largely irreversible." The region has over 200 glacial lakes that are considered dangerous.
A yak grazes in front of snow-covered mountains in the Gilgit-Baltistan region, an area that has been badly affected by flood-related incidents.
Darkut village, also part of GLOF II, sits surrounded by mountains and glaciers above verdant plains where yaks graze. At the bottom of the nearby Darkut Glacier lies a deep turquoise lake.
"Until 1978...this whole place was a glacier, [then] the pool of water came later," said 75-year-old Musafir Khan, pointing at the lake that formed as the glacier receded.
Unlike the ice-dammed lake at Shisper, Darkut is formed in the soil and rock landscape left by a receding glacier.
Musafir Khan
In northern Pakistan, such moraine-dammed lakes are linked to comparatively few GLOFs, according to ICIMOD researcher Sher Muhammad, but in other parts of mountainous Asia, they have been associated with higher casualty rates than ice-dammed lakes.
The risks of both types of lakes may increase, Muhammad says.
Muhammad Yasin, an environmental-sciences graduate researcher at Karakorum International University, is studying the extent to which the Darkut glacier is melting.
"We have told the community that risk factors exist in this lake, you should be aware of this," he said.
Many families have left over the years after previous flash floods, says Khan, who was born in the remote village, but hundreds rebuilt nearby.
Sultan Ali, 70, walks over cracks that developed after a GLOF swept away part of the land in Hassanabad.
In Hassanabad, the prospect of moving also fills many with disbelief. Their families have lived off orchard fields surrounded by soaring mountains for 400 years, growing produce and grazing livestock high in the plains. Many say they have no resources to move from the village, where their ancestors are buried.
"If the flood cuts us off, we will miss the nature of this village, our neighbors, and relatives," said Tehzeeb, Jamil’s 15-year-old daughter.
"Like a bird in a cage," Jamil said of moving to a city. He is open to exploring the option, but says he will focus on keeping the village alive.
"It's my responsibility to prevent the community from (facing) any disaster."
Passu village, located in the Gojal valley in the Karakoram mountain range in the Gilgit-Baltistan region.