In July 2016, the ancient Armenian city of Ani, now in eastern Turkey, was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. For Armenians, a people still living under the shadow of what they regard as "the first genocide of the 20th centuryā€¯ carried out against their ancestors who lived under the Ottoman Empire, the listing ensures protection of a small but treasured piece of their heritage. But a visit to the region today shows that, outside the walls of Ani, what remains of Armenian culture in Turkey is in danger of disappearing entirely.